A Guide to Bornholm: How to Get There, Where to Stay, and What to Eat
Bornholm is a small Danish island in the Baltic Sea, located between Sweden, Denmark, and Germany. Known for its rugged coastline, charming fishing villages, historic sites, and famous smokehouses, Bornholm is the perfect Scandinavian getaway.
In this guide, you’ll find everything you need to plan your trip: how to get to Bornholm, where to stay, the best food experiences, and must-see attractions.
How to Get to Bornholm
From Copenhagen to Bornholm
One of the easiest ways to reach Bornholm from Copenhagen is by combining car and ferry:
- Drive via the Øresund Bridge (16 km) that connects Copenhagen, Denmark, with Malmö, Sweden. The bridge is also well-known from the TV series “The Bridge.”
- Continue driving from Malmö to Ystad, where you can board the Molslinjen ferry to Rønne, Bornholm.
- The ferry takes just one hour, so you can relax on deck with a drink and enjoy the Baltic Sea views.
Book ferry tickets a few months in advance for better prices.
The total journey from Copenhagen to Bornholm takes around 4 hours, including the ferry.
From Germany to Bornholm
Another option is to take the Sassnitz – Rønne ferry from northern Germany, which is a convenient choice for visitors coming from Berlin or Hamburg.



Where to Stay on Bornholm: Allinge Badehotel
We stayed at Allinge Badehotel, a historic seaside hotel in the northern town of Allinge.
- The building dates back to 1774 and even hosted King Frederik VII and Countess Danner in 1851.
- The hotel is run by Mie Lavine, originally from Belgium, who creates a warm and welcoming atmosphere.
- Our rooms overlooked a charming courtyard filled with lavender, hollyhocks, and a fig tree.
Breakfast is served on the top floor with panoramic sea views — don’t miss the homemade fig jam.










Just across the road, you can take a dip in the Baltic Sea, or follow the scenic coastal path past Næs Strand, Æggehønen, and Sandkås Strand before reaching Tejn (a 5 km walk).






Bornholm’s Famous Smokehouses (Røgeri)
One of Bornholm’s culinary highlights is visiting traditional smokehouses, known locally as Røgeri. These iconic white-chimneyed buildings serve freshly smoked fish, especially herring and salmon.
Most smokehouses are open from April to October, and visiting them is a must for food lovers.
We tried four of them in one day:
- Bakka Røgeriet – Established in 1938, located by Sømarken Beach and a small fishing harbor.
- Snogebæk Røgeri – Both a restaurant and a shop; nearby you can explore the scenic Alka Badested.
- Svaneke Røgeri – Located in the artistic town of Svaneke, home to Bornholm’s only brewery, Bryghuset. You’ll also find historic cannons used to defend the island.
- Hasle Røgeri – Smoking fish for over 100 years, this west coast village is the birthplace of “Sol over Gudhjem”, an open sandwich topped with smoked herring, egg yolk, radishes, and chives. Pair it with a beer from Svaneke Bryghus or cider from Bornholms Mosteri.
















Fine Dining on Bornholm: Kadeau Restaurant
Our main reason for visiting Bornholm in 2024 was to dine at Kadeau Bornholm, a Michelin-starred and Michelin Green Star restaurant.
- Open from mid-May to September, Kadeau is located on Øster Sømarken Beach in southern Bornholm.
- The restaurant is deeply connected to nature: chefs harvest daily from the organic Kadeau garden and forage ingredients sustainably from the wild.
The experience begins with champagne on the terrace at sunset, followed by a seasonal tasting menu that includes dishes like:
- Mahogany clam with sloe blossom
- Smoked salmon with rye
- Queen scallop with asparagus and caviar
- Aged pork
- Berries from the garden
- Cardamom cake
We paired these with an incredible wine list, from Loire Valley to Georgia and Sicily.
Dining at Kadeau is more than a meal — it’s a journey through the flavors of Bornholm’s land and sea.
“We start everyday in the organic Kadeau garden, where our chefs harvest what is needed for the day. Our other main source of ingredients is the wild, and we have developed an awareness for just picking what we need to ensure enough is left for the plants to come again the following year.” — Nicolai Nørregaard
This quote encompasses what Kadeau stands for, you are transported with every bite into their world.
We received the menu signed by the chefs which we have now have framed in our kitchen and we also were given some coriander seeds from their garden.












Things to Do in Bornholm
Beyond food, Bornholm offers stunning natural and historic attractions.
Hammershus Castle
On the northern tip of Bornholm lies Hammershus, the largest castle ruin in Northern Europe.
- Built around 1200 by the Archbishop of Lund and the Danish church, the fortress played a key role in medieval power struggles.
- Abandoned in 1745, it now stands as Bornholm’s most popular attraction.
- The site is open year-round and free to visit.
Opalsøen Lake
Close to Hammershus, you’ll find Opalsøen, a striking artificial lake with deep blue waters. It was created in an old stone quarry and is now a popular swimming and hiking spot.




Final Thoughts: Why Visit Bornholm?
Bornholm is a unique Scandinavian island that combines:
- Easy access from Copenhagen, Malmö, and Germany
- Charming hotels like Allinge Badehotel
- Traditional food culture at local Røgeri smokehouses
- World-class dining at Kadeau
- Rich history at Hammershus Castle
- Natural beauty at Opalsøen and coastal trails
Whether you’re visiting for the food, the history, or the seaside atmosphere, Bornholm is a destination that feels both authentic and unforgettable.
Written by Elene Riordan
Welcome to Travelling Cooks! I’m Elene, a 50-ish-year-old British-Belgian woman living in Brussels, surrounded by my beautiful friends and family. This blog is a celebration of my three great passions—travel, restaurants, and cooking. Enjoy!