A Road Trip Through Jutland: Copenhagen to Skagen and back

Hejlsminde – Foraging by the Sea and Crab Racing

Our first stop was Hejlsminde, a quiet seaside town where we stayed at a friend’s beach house.

Everytime we are here the days pass gently: foraging for mussels and shrimps along the coast, baking focaccia, and turning cherries picked straight from the tree into a bubbling cobbler.

Then there’s the endless change of the colour of the sea and sky, ending in the most amazing sunsets.

When you are in Hejlsminde for several days, here are some activities you can enjoy:

• A walk along Grønninghoved Strand, and on to the Skamlignsbakestien path in the Lillebaelt Nature Park, followed by lunch at the historic Skamlingsbanken Restaurant, perched on a hill with sweeping views.
• A gentle stroll on the Hejlsminde Vargarde Skov, an hour’s walk through the forest and along the sea.
• A surfing lesson at Dunkerbeck Windsurfing & Sup

There is a tradition that everyone who goes to Hejlsminde must try. It’s the crab race… you must catch crabs and race them on the special ‘slide’ at the harbour.

If you don’t have a beach house waiting, stay at Den Gamle Lade i Hejls, a charming B&B where you can spend your days by the beach and catch breathtaking sunsets over the nearby lake.

A Night at Kellers Badehotel in Fanoe

From Hejlsminde, we drove north, crossed by ferry, and spent one night at Kellers Badehotel, a beautiful hotel that feels like home.

The hotel has a gourmet restaurant offering a unique dining experience. Meals are built on seasonality and locality—fresh lamb from nearby farms, shellfish from the Wadden Sea, and wild herbs foraged around the dunes.

You can chose between the “Rudimentær” menu, which offers delicate seafood and vegetables at their seasonal peak. The more elaborate “Pit i Grete” menu is a full tasting journey with multiple courses, cheeses, petits fours for a true special occasion.

While in the area, we also stopped at the iconic Men at Sea statues, admired giant sand sculptures at the Sandskulptur Festival, and walked up to Bovbjerg Lighthouse for sweeping sea views.

Container Living in Thyborøn – Dinner at Mallemukken

The next stop was something different: a night at Containerhus 18b, a modern and quirky home made of shipping containers. It felt right for a maritime town like Thyborøn.

For dinner, we chose Restaurant Mallemukken, where two upturned fishing boats form part of the building—a playful nod to the sea. The atmosphere is relaxed and family-friendly, with the smell of salt air never far away. This restaurant is only open in the evening on the weekend.

Seafood is their pride, especially the crispy fried plaice with butter and parsley and their open-faced sandwiches topped with shrimp or smoked salmon. The menu also includes ribeye, burgers, and options for kids and vegetarians. With a starter, main, dessert, and drinks, a dinner for two comes in around DKK 400–700, excellent value for food this fresh.

Afterwards, we walked the Langerhuse Fiskemole, visited the Battle of Jutland Memorial Park, and watched the sun set into the horizon on Thyborøn Beach.

Rubjerg Knude to Skagen – Lunch at Villa Vest

The road north took us to Rubjerg Knude Lighthouse, standing on the dunes, with the sea stretching out.

Lunch at Villa Vest — Lønstrup

Perched dramatically on the cliffs above Lønstrup, Villa Vest is more than just a restaurant; it’s an encounter with the North Sea itself.

We stopped here for lunch, and it became one of the highlights of our trip. Chef Anders Holm, who grew up in the area, crafts menus that celebrate Jutland’s finest produce, with seafood taking center stage.

Dishes are as beautiful as the setting: kingfish paired with tart gooseberries and elderflower, or delicate monkfish alongside freshly foraged herbs.

The Chef Holm balances flavors with precision, letting the natural character of each ingredient shine while surprising you with combinations that feel fresh and deeply rooted in the landscape around you.

A 3-course gourmet menu starts at around DKK 1,000 per person, was one of the most memorable and exquisite meal of our journey.

Skagen – Where 2 Seas Meet

By late afternoon, we reached Skagen and checked into Plesners Badehotel for two nights in a junior suite, with plenty of space for 3 adults.

This is a beautifully restored seaside hotel with roots going back to 1907. The atmosphere has the perfect balance between classic beach-house charm and modern comfort, with light Scandinavian interiors, oak floors, and thoughtful details.

The location couldn’t be better—close to the harbour, the museum, and the wide sandy beaches—yet peaceful enough to unwind after a day of exploring. Breakfast was a highlight, with homemade breads, cheeses, and fresh local specialties that set us up perfectly for the day.

What we did in Skagen and its surroundings:

• Watched the sunset at Højen (Gammel Skagen), dining at Solnedgangspladsen, a casual yet atmospheric spot right by the dunes.

• Feasted on seafood at the lively Port of Skagen at Fiskerestaurant, where summer evenings often bring live music. Expect generous platters of fish and shellfish (mains typically DKK 200–350).

• Visited the Skagen Museum, home to masterpieces by the Skagen Painters.

• Walked to Grenen, where the North Sea and Baltic Sea meet. Encountered a mum and baby seal lounging there, with each sea in the background, was unforgettable.

• A day visit to Råbjerg Mile, the surreal vast sand desert-like landscape that slowly drifts across Skagen’s landscape.

Even in July, pack a sweater. Skagen’s winds at sunset can be brisk.

A Night in Aarhus

Heading south again, we stopped in Aarhus, Denmark’s second-largest city, and stayed at Oasia Aarhus, a stylish yet relaxed hotel. Our must-see was the ARoS Art Museum, especially its rooftop rainbow panorama that lets you walk through colours while gazing out across the city.

A stroll along the harbour led us to Madklubben Århus for dinner. This restaurant is located in Toldkammeret in a building that through the years has hosted everything from a student house to a concert venue.

At Madklubben Aarhus, the menu is simple but satisfying Nordic-modern classics with fresh grilled meats and fish, seasonal vegetables, crisp salads, and hearty mains like oksecuvette or steak béarnaise. Every dish is full of flavour, generosity, and good value.

Back to Copenhagen

From Aarhus, it was an easy drive back to Copenhagen, closing a loop of sea breezes, foraged meals, and evenings spent watching the sky catch fire over the water.

Jutland may not be as well-known as Copenhagen or the Danish islands, but it offers a road trip full of quiet discoveries, soulful meals, and places that leave a lingering memory.

Written by Elene Riordan

Welcome to Travelling Cooks! I’m Elene, a 50-ish-year-old British-Belgian woman living in Brussels, surrounded by my beautiful friends and family. This blog is a celebration of my three great passions—travel, restaurants, and cooking. Enjoy!